New generation

I picked up my new generator yesterday but it needed some 10/30 oil and a new male plug. What I did not expect was it to have a socket on the side which is the 2 pin European TUV type socket. Luckily I had an adaptor, but I lacked a 3 pin male to make a fly lead so I had to wait til today to go to B & Q to get one. It also needs 10/30 oil although I could not find any anywhere. I decided to settle for some 10/40 as I’m unlikely to face dramatically cold temperatures anytime soon. £15 friggin’ quid for a litre of the oil! Seriously, they’re having  a piggin’ laugh though! Greedy robbing bastards! but you see they know, if you want it, and need it, you will pay for it. And so works our great capitalist system.


But I digress: I got an old plastic carton and filled it with .4 of a litre of water as that is the generator’s stated oil capacity. I marked the level with a Sharpie, then emptied and dried it and filled it with oil to that level. I used the supplied funnel to fill the generator and it was precise. The oil just reached the very base of the threads that the dipstick screwed into: very neat.
I’d filled up with petrol the night before and although they say don’t brim it because of expansion, I’m a true rebel so I squeezed exactly 4 litres in instead of the recommended 3.80 litres. Blargh.

Filled with oil…Check!
Filled with petrol…Check!
Open air vent on petrol filler cap…check!
Choke out…Check!
Engine switch on…Check!
Economy mode switch on…Check!
Pulled the handle…nothing. That’s fine, petrol needs to get through. So I shoved the choke back in and gave it another pull and it started on the third pull. The green power light flashes for a few seconds then steadies and then you can plug stuff in.

I’d made the new fly lead so I plugged it in and instantly my Sterling charger came to life and after it’s internal start up check was complete it started charging. The 2 x 220 ahr batteries are down to about 12.1 volts, effectively flat, so I knew the charger would pull on the generator in order to bash a high charge out and sure enough it did.
Out of curiosity I switched economy mode off and of course the engine note got louder but still was not as loud as my old SDMO before it departed for the gennie heaven. On economy mode it was quieter still and yet powering the charger with no problem at all. One thing I noted was that to plug the fly lead in, the socket is almost at the base of the generator body so you have to bend right over and in fact it’s easier to tilt the generator back over to get the plug in. Poor design there.

Anyway. well see how long it lasts on 4 litres of petrol: my SDMO lasted 11-12 hours on 7 litres but had no economy mode. As I sit here about 2 hours after starting it I can hear it outside and it is definitely much quieter, and a sound meter app on my phone says 54db at about 7 metres. However it is ‘missing a beat’ constantly, as if it is about to start being starved of fuel or air. It’s not affecting the charging at all and my SDMO used to do this, but only once or twice per use. This is doing it every few minutes and it could be simply the engine running in, I’ll wait and see.
It fits in front of the front seat but only just, but it is lighter when filled with petrol than my SDMO was when empty. Champion state 25kg but it really doesn’t feel anywhere near that.

So, as long as it runs without any problem, and uses roughly the same amount of petrol for each battery cycle, then for £369.99 I am very happy indeed. I’ll keep you updated of course 🙂

**Quick update: it’s been running now since 19:30, that’s almost 8.5 hours and the charging routine is about where you’d expect it to be. However for the last couple of hours the engine is running almost permanently as if it’s about to cut out, faltering for a beat every few seconds. Although it’s a very quiet engine, that ‘stuttering’ is incredibly irritating. It only does it in economy mode at low power draw, so my guess would be that the economy mode  setting is too low. I could use a teeny bit of choke and see if that helps, or simply set it to run faster, there must be an adjustment on the carb. I’ll wait and see how long it gets out fo one tank of fuel first then adjust it and try again later, to compare fuel consumption.

For the techies here’s the spec from Champion:

Manufacturer: Champion
Product Code: 72001I
Continuous KVA: 0.00 KVA
Maximum KVA: 0.00 KVA
Continuous KW: 1.60 KW
Maximum KW: 2.00 KW
Sockets: 1 x 230v 13amp
Fuel Type: Petrol
Run Time: 9.50 hours
Noise Level: 53 dba @ 7m
Weight: 25.00kg
Width: 335mm
Height: 415mm
Length: 490mm
Fuel Capacity: 3.80L
Starting Method: Recoil
Frequency: 50Hz
AVR: Yes

A clutch of good news

Following on from getting my van back with a lovely new rear end, I decided that if I was to go abroad this year I should really get the clutch done first.

What I’ve noticed more and more is that when driving, the rev counter suddenly goes up by maybe 500 rpm’s without altering the speed, then drops back down again. I think that’s the clutch slipping. It is a 3 ton van so perhaps I could not expect the same life out of this clutch as I could from a car. 11 years and 110,000 miles is probably not that bad when you think about it.

I had been asking around as Robins and Day wanted a wallet scaring £800 to fit a new clutch. I finally got quoted £166 by Hoddy’s in Gateshead who are Vosa approved so I’ve booked the van in for Monday morning and we’ll see how they do.

I also ordered a new wing mirror. £138 from Wingmirrorman. Now when you stack a wing mirror against a new clutch to be fitted and there’s only £28 difference, what’s that all about!

I had spent some time shopping around for a new generator too and was becoming bogged down by so many makes. Finally a Welsh company stepped up with some advice and they narrowed my choices down to two: a Yamaha and a new American import called Champion. As the Champion was much cheaper at only £370 I decided to go for that one. I should get it tomorrow so hopefully it will live up to all the hype.

It’s always an anxious time spending this amount of money on anything, especially with a company you haven’t used before. I’m thinking positively though, the generator simply has to work as well as my old one and I will be content.

I’ve been really busy copying all of my 2000+ DVD’s to hard drive so I’ll try and get round to adding some photos to the last few posts when I get the chance.

Generator finally dies

As the van will be going in for repair on Thursday, I decided to run the generator to make sure the batteries are topped up to fully 100% charge before it’s left, as leaving batteries discharged even partially affects their life span greatly.

Half way through I noticed a fluctuation from the charger and I could hear the gennie stuttering as if it was running out of fuel. I went out to have a look and the vent in front of the electronics was blowing out sparks! Also I pulled the plug out of the generator itself and found the industrial rubber plug I’d put onto the fly lead had melted. The whole socket assembly was also melted and sparks were flying everywhere. Luckily the cut off switch worked and I shut it down as the engine was hammering along happily still despite the heat and sparks.

I’ve not even bothered to open it up yet, I may not bother at all because I doubt I’d be able to figure out why this happened, I’ll just presume a component failed. I do need to have one despite the solar panels, so there’s at least £500 I’ll have to spend that I didn’t want to.
The generator is an SDMO Booster 2kw and is about 7 years old and for most of those years it has been run every 3 days for 11-12 hours. I have no idea at all if that is good or bad, but I know places like markets and burger vans run their’s all day every day. Never mind, the Hyundai’s come highly recommended and they won’t break the bank so I’ll just do a little more overtime to pay for a new one *sigh*

New solar panel

As the solar panels I fitted last August have proven so reliable I’ve decided to order another one. My controller can handle about handle 390 watts which in all likelihood is more than I will get from my 4 x 100 watt panels as they’re never likely to work at 100% efficiency.
There’s space on the roof too for one more and then that’s it. So what the heck, judging by performance so far I’d say all 4 and all of the gear to fit them will have been paid for by the end of spring if not before, by not having to run the generator.
These are the panels I have:

If anyone wild camps I’d suggest this is a way to go if you have space on your roof and some capital to spare for a few months.

Solar panels are ‘wow’

I installed my solar panels 17 weeks ago today. 3 x 100 watt Biard panels on the roof.
Normally I’d recharge batteries with the gennie once every 3 days and it costs a tenner in petrol for the gennie each time.
So, 17 weeks is 119 days, that’s 40 times I’d have charged the batteries in that period, meaning, £400 of petrol.
However with having the panels, I’ve only had to charge the batteries using the gennie 5 times in that period, that’s £50. So I’ve saved £350 in petrol in that time.
The panels and all the associated bits cost just under £700, so in that 17 weeks I’ve already saved half the cost of them.
Wow is all I can say.

Booster needs a Boost

Last year the pull cord on my SDMO Booster generator snapped and I replaced it with some tough para cord I found in B and Q.  Everything was fine although it wasn’t the easiest thing I’ve ever taken apart.  I didn’t mind really as it’s lasted about 6 years before needing replacing.

However some time after that I noticed that when I started it up, after a minute or 3 the engine would cut out. I just started it again and it was fine. After some months, it cut out twice and each time I had to start it again. When I had changed the pull cord some oil had leaked from the sump into the air filter as I had it on it’s side. (Duh at me) So I put it in for a full service which cost me £60.  New filter, things cleaned, plug done, oil changed etc so when it started doing the same thing again I was bothered. I went back to the place that serviced it and explained and they shrugged and said they could do nothing as it must be the electrics. I can find nowhere that seems to repair generators which is odd.

Lately, it takes much longer to start. This morning I had to restart it 8 times before it ran. Each time it runs for about a minute, then about 10 seconds each time I restart, until it finally runs. It’s getting  a major drag now so I think it’s time I stripped it down and see what I can do. I can’t really make it much worse, and Clarke’s do a 2Kw suitcase gennie now for £450 so it’s not going to cost me the earth if I have to replace it. Obviously I don’t want to have to, but I want to see if I can fix something as it’s driving me bonkers.

I’ll let you know how it goes 🙂

Power in your van, amps, volts, watts etc…this might answer most of your questions

So you’re not sure what power you need in your van, how to charge your mobile, whether you can use a hairdryer and how long you can watch TV for. Hopefully I can explain everything you need to know in simple terms. Read on…

The very first step that most don’t do and which is what confuses everything is working out what power you need. Forget batteries and solar panels for now, let’s sit down and look at exactly the kinds of power you are going to use while away. This is assuming you won’t get Electric Hook Up (EHU ) very often.

What power do you need?

So, firstly what boiler do you have? Hopefully a gas one, if so use it on gas. Same with a heater. They both use tons of power so if you can use them on gas, do it and save your batteries. Most heaters might be about 2000 watts. The relationship between watts and amps is simple: divide the watts by the voltage and you get amps. If we always use 13 volts as default then, 2000 watts, divided by 13 = 154 amps. Your battery firstly could not possibly supply that amount of power but even if it could if you drain a battery that quickly it will overheat and the wires could easily melt, or the batteries explode.

Even if it’s a small heater at 1000 watts, that’s still 77 amps. So you can see that running high drain devices is a definite no no. 

So, the 12 volt devices in your van that you will use are typically:

  • Water pump, 2-3 amps 
  • Lights, at most 1/2 amp if they are LED, 1 amp if they are standard filament bulbs.
  • Laptop through a charger, maybe 4 amps
  • Fan assist for gas heater, 1-3 amps depending on speed
  • Radio, 1-4 amps depending on volume
  • TV, depends on type but could be 2-3 amps

Now to work out simple amps usage, just take for instance a laptop. You use it for 2 hours a night, if the charger says 4 amps then that’s 8 amps used. Nice and simple.
The water pump, only used for seconds at a time so maybe uses 3 amps 20 times a day at 6 seconds each. So = 20 x 6 is 120 seconds or 2 minutes.  3 amps divided by 60 minutes is 0.05 amps per minute. So in 2 minutes you have only used 0.05 amps x 2 = 0.1 amp. Hardly even worth factoring in. If you’re not used to maths just take your time reading it and consider the numbers only, it becomes second nature after a while. 

If your radio is on for 3 hours using 1 amp, that’s 3 amps, so that’s simple. So let’s say a typical usage in a day is:

  • Water pump, 15 minutes = 0.75 amp
  • Lights, 2 of them for 5 hours a night at 1/2 amp each, 5 amps in total
  • TV, 5 hours also at 3 amps, 15 amps
  • Laptop, 1 hour for updating Facebook etc at 4 amps, 4 amps.

Total used .75 + 5 + 15 + 4 = 24.75 amps used. So, you now know what your power usage is throughout one typical day, let’s call it 25 amps.

That’s 12 volts, what about mains power in the van?

There is one device that complicates things and that’s an inverter. An inverter is a box that you wire into your leisure batteries, and it inverts the 12 volts from them to mains power of 230 volts. It’s very clever in that it allows you to use mains devices without having EHU, however it does use some power to invert the voltage, typically about 1/2 to 1 amp. Given that you are getting mains power without being connected to the mains that’s a small price to pay. 

So, your TV might not be 12 volts. It may be mains voltage but what’s happening there is every TV is probably about 12-19 volts anyway. So when you plug it into the mains a transformer drops the voltage down from 230 volts to 12-19 volts. So for you to use an inverter means 12 volts is turned into to 230, which is then dropped to 12-19 by the TV! There’s a lot of wastage in there so if you can use a 12 volt TV do so, if not, well you just have to put up with it. 

However, if you do take this route the transformer or “charger” as most call them will have a sticker on and it will say something like ‘Input voltage: 230 volts, .26 amps. Output voltage: 15 volts, 4 amps. If your TV plugs directly into the mains without a transformer it will still have a sticker somewhere saying this. The simplest way to work out roughly what power you’re going to use is add an amp onto what the sticker says for the output voltage. So your TV is going to use roughly 5 amps when plugged into the inverter. 

Many people will tell you not to use an inverter because it’s wasteful. It is, but travelling at anything over 55 mph is also wasteful as is leaving food on a plate but we all do it as a considered choice. I have used dedicated 12 volt items that used more power than a similar mains device run through an inverter. My feeling is if it isn’t a massive cost and the benefit you get is worth it, just do it, only you can decide what’s best for you. 

Obviously this is a limited example, you might use a variety of other electrical devices, each one of them will have the current draw (ampage) on a sticker attached to it so you can easily add it to your list. Once you draw up your list you know what power you are always likely to use and that’s the starting point, the only starting point that will help you decide what batteries, charger, solar panels etc that you will need. 
This has by far been the most difficult part for a beginner so it all gets easier after this you’ll be glad to know. 

So, what batteries do I need and how do I charge them?

OK we worked out that you are going to use about 25 amps per day. Now, how long do you go away for? 2 days at a time? 3 days? A week? Let’s start with a weekend away. 
The first thing is leisure batteries, like all batteries they are weird. Whatever they are rated at, you should usually never use more than half that or you are shortening the battery’s life. So, if you have a 110 amp battery, you’ve got about 60 amps to play with. You can use up to 80 amps, but you must recharge the battery fully almost immediately afterwards or you risk damaging it. So lets stick to 50%. It’s generally called 50% DOD, or Depth Of Discharge. That’s how much your battery has been discharged or used. 

So if we have 60 amps to play with, and you use about 25 amps per day, you’re only going to get a little over 2 days usage from that battery. That’s perfect for a weekend. No worries at all as long as your battery is charged when you set off, you can easily last the weekend. 
If you want more than a weekend there are several choices you have:

  • Get a slightly bigger battery – amp for amp this is really a costly choice and not the best one. If you are needing to replace an existing battery do try to replace it with the biggest you can get. Typically for most people this is a 120 ahr battery. I have two 240 ahr batteries as my usage is very high, if you work from the van and need tons of power you might consider this route. You would need to back such a big battery bank up with a generator and solar power and a decent mains charger and maybe a battery to battery charger. 110 ahrs batteries now cost around £120 for lower end ones.
  • Buy a generator – you would need to justify the outlay by using it regularly for long trips away and factor in the weight and the cost of the gennie and ongoing cost of the fuel. If you go away for very long periods at a time then this could prove a good option, but it would be an option mainly for winter. The rest of the year solar panels would be likely to keep you going. A 2 Kilowatt (2000 watts) is a good size, but this depends on what batteries you have. Mine is 2 Kw and feeds a 50 amp charger. Typical gennie prices might be as low as £600 for a 2 Kw. 
  • Book onto a campsite for EHU – the best answer if you like campsites, you don’t have to worry at all about batteries then. Some sites allow up to 16 amps mains which is a lot of power. 8 amps is also common and gives you almost 2000 watts so you could do almost anything with that except a high power electric heater or boiler. Most devices say how many watts they use so check all your devices.
  • Add a second battery – you’re paying a lot and adding a lot of weight and only adding 2 more days of power. If you only go on a few trips a year this could easily be your answer, as more expensive options simply aren’t going to pay for themselves. So, if you don’t often use your van much get another battery of the same size and type and that should do you fine. Bear in mind if you rely on the inbuilt charger that your van came with, it will probably not be able to cope with 2 batteries, you need to get this checked out. Even after short trips you must put them on charge as soon as you return and periodically charge them if they are not used for long periods. 110 ahrs batteries now cost around £120 for lower end ones.
  • Add solar panels – initial cost is high, but the weight is less than a battery and most of the time they permanently provide plenty of free power, although next to nothing in winter. Even if you have a generator solar panels will continually give you free power on most days outside of winter. Pound for Pound these are by far the best choice if you need more power for long periods of time. A 100 watt panel is about 5-6 amps depending on it’s own voltage which is usually about 16-21 volts. You need perfect conditions to get that 5 amps and it’s almost impossible to get those conditions. You are likely to get 3 usable amps from a 100 watt panel even in good conditions and you will only get that most of the day in high summer. In winter you will most likely get nothing at all. Therefore, add as many as you can of as high a capacity as you can. My panels were £120 each but then another £240 for the controller which you need to take the voltage from the panel and send it to the batteries. It was also about £80 for cables, fixings, mounts etc.
  • Fit a Battery to Battery charger – these are specialist chargers which charge your batteries as you drive. A decent one will cost about £300 and you need about 5-6 hours driving to charge a typical 100 ahr leisure battery fully. They are very cost effective if you drive long distances, or if you drive shorter distances but frequently, but if you tend to drive somewhere close by then stay for a while they’re not worth the cost. A charger should be about 20% of the battery bank. So, if your battery is 100 ahrs, your charger needs to be 20 amps. if you have 2x 100 ahrs batteries your charger needs to be 40 amps. 30 amps would do but obviously would be slower to charge. They are absolutely simple to fit, connecting in between your vehicle battery and the leisure battery with strong cables. Mine is a high end one and cost £340 but it has paid for itself many times over in the last 12 years.

Some simple examples based on whatever your usage worked out at

So, you go away for a weekend or long weekend now and again, check your existing one, if it’s something like 85 ahrs (remember you can only use half) then you don’t even get 2 full days out of it. So replace it for a 120 ahrs and you will survive fine for a weekend, but if you already have something close to 120 ahrs but find you’re running out on the last day, think about a second battery. Remember if you have 2 leisure batteries wired in parallel they need to be the same size and type and age.

If you go away for longer trips you might want to consider a small generator. Second hand ones can be bought cheaply but even a new one isn’t bank breaking. It might be years before it pays for itself but if in the meanwhile you get lots of pleasure then it’s worth it. It saves you the cost of buying a second battery, but you must fuel it too and that will cost around £5 – 6 per use. Remember the gennie won’t just charge your batteries, most 2 Kw versions will put out 8 amps so if the gennie is plugged into your EHU socket you can also use those mains devices which can’t run on your inverter, such as a hoover, hairdryer, microwave etc.

Again for longer trips you can consider solar panels. The whole setup of 400 watts ( which could get you up to 15 amps) would be a comparable price to a generator, however there are no ongoing fuel costs, no maintenance costs, no extra weight and bulk inside the van and no humping it about when you need it especially in the rain. 
Monocrystalline panels tend to be slightly more efficient than polycrystalline and sometimes cheaper. The more you have the more difference there is so if you’re only going to have one panel of 120 watts a poly will do fine, if you’re going to have 4 panels of 150 watts it would pay to choose mono. The difference is small though so it should not define your ultimate decision.
If the panels voltage is higher than the batterys voltage (which they usually are) you need to get an MPPT controller and not a PWM. So battery voltage is about 12 – 15, panels usually run at about 16 – 21 so I would always advise an MPPT. Also, if your panels are say, 4x 120 watts that’s 480 watts, which at 21 volts is 20 amps, (480 divided by 21) so your controller needs to be a 30 amp model as it needs to be larger than the potential maximum power coming from the panels. 

Are flexible solar panels worth the money?

You can get thin, flexible solar panels which are glued to your roof and some you can even walk on without damaging them. I have read in many places that because of the heat build up they often fail, and also that they are less efficient so you need much more to get the same power as less panels. I’ve read 1 or 2 anecdotes from people who say they work perfectly, but there is enough doubt in my mind that I bought rigid panels with plastic mounts to put on the roof. The decision is yours alone. Research it for yourself and see what people say and see what you think. 

I hope this brief introduction has helped, you’re welcome to email me or leave a comment if it has and if you have points to make or more questions to ask feel free to do so.

Got my new generator

I finally bought a new generator. I chose the SDMO 2kw suitcase model shown below.  It was only £550, which for a generator of it’s power is quite a decent price. The nearest to it was the Honda 2kw which was over £1,500.

Picture of a suitcase type generator
SDMO Booster 2000

It uses the same engine as the Honda, and since trying it I’ve found it lasts about 11-12 hours on one tank of petrol which is about 7 litres, which is phenomenal.  It’s not quite as quiet as the Honda, but it’s quiet enough that if you’re in a noisy place, or 30 feet from anyone it will just sound like an engine running.

Running the van engine was very costly in diesel, and I was told that HDI engines weren’t designed to idle for long, so running it for hours to charge the batteries was going to damage the engine eventually. So far I’m very happy with it and it’s going to save me some cash too.

New generation!

Elecsol carbon fibre batteryRight, I’ve looked at generators and the Honda suitcase seems to be the very best you can get.

The only problem is I don’t have Honda money. So instead I’ve sourced an SDMO Booster which uses a Honda engine, but costs a quarter of the Honda at only £550

I’ll be getting one of those then.